Lao
- Tanja & Björn
- Dec 11, 2024
- 10 min read
Lao – The country that almost forced us to give up: An adventure full of nature, culture and a lot of courage.
Laos, a country full of untouched nature, impressive culture and warm people, captivated us in many ways - sometimes with amazement and sometimes with fear. Whether it was relaxing boat trips on the Mekong, exciting adventures in the mountains or exploring charming and remote villages. Laos offered us fascinating diversity, but also one of the most intense experiences of our trip. In February we were about to start our journey home, but fate had other plans. Read on to find out what made us enter our credit card number for the return flights and how we ultimately decided to continue our journey.
One thing at a time, in order to be allowed to enter the country in the first place, you must note the following: The eVisa for Laos can be obtained on the official website The eVisa is available for tourists and allows a stay of up to 30 days. Processing time is usually three working days, so make sure you have a copy of your passport, a passport photo and a credit card ready for payment. The visa is accepted at certain border stations, including Vientiane International Airport, Luang Prabang International Airport and the Friendship Bridge from Nong Khai to Vientiane.
TnB tip: When entering through other border crossings, you should have a passport photo and some US dollars with you.
Table of contents:
**Please note that the information shared here is based on our personal experiences. Prices, opening times and offers are subject to change, and experiences are often weather or seasonal dependent. Be sure to check up-to-date information directly with operators to plan your best possible travel experience.
Mekong – Our Journey to the 4,000 Islands
Our adventure in Laos began on the 4000 Islands, a collection of small islands in the Mekong that are perfect for a relaxed arrival. Everyone will find their perfect holiday island here. We were particularly taken with the island of Don Det. Here we found cozy accommodation at Mister Thos Bungalows, which is located right on the river. The relaxed atmosphere, the sound of the Mekong and the friendliness of the locals made us fall in love with the country straight away. A highlight for us was the guided kayak tour, where we were able to experience the river landscapes with an international group. These tours are offered almost everywhere on the islands and are an absolute must for anyone who wants to combine fun and nature. Many tours also offer the Khon Phapheng Waterfall - the largest waterfall in Southeast Asia, also known as the "Niagara Falls of the Mekong". This is on Don Khon and can be reached by boat or tuk-tuk.
TnB-tip: Rent a bike and explore the surrounding islands - you will never be able to rent a bike this cheaply again (1€ per day).
But there is so much more that we didn't manage to do on the 4,000 Islands, but that you definitely shouldn't miss.
Liphi Waterfalls (Tat Somphamit): Also on Don Khon, but less well known and no less impressive, are these waterfalls.
Wat Khon Tai Temple: On Don Khon you will find this small charming temple.
TnB tip: The Mekong is simply magical and indescribable at sunset. Take a kayak and enjoy the sunset on the mirror-like river.
Departure to Pakse: The start of the next adventure
From the relaxed islands we went on to Pakse, where we planned the next big adventure: the famous Pakse Loop. We stopped at Miss Noey, a scooter rental company - an absolute insider tip and therefore a TnB tip if you want to rent a scooter for the Pakse Loop. The people there are incredibly friendly and will explain everything you need to know about the loop, including valuable route recommendations and tips for food and accommodation .
Equipped with the scooter, we set out to explore the region. Our first stop took us to Mr. Vieng Coffee Homestay - also a TnB tip ! Here we had a sensational coffee introduction, including a tour of the plantation with a tasting of ants that tasted like lemon. An experience for everyone, even if you're not a coffee drinker like Tanja.
Depending on the time of year, you can see some very beautiful waterfalls. Firstly, the Tad Fane and the Tad Lo waterfall. TnB tip: Spend some time in Tad Lo and enjoy the hiking trails to remote parts of the waterfalls, where you are often completely alone. In Tad Lo we spent the night in Bolaven Garden - a small, modest, incredibly cozy little village with very nice people.
At that point, we didn't know that the next few weeks would change a lot. More on that in the next chapter. Of course, we don't want to keep the Pakse Loop from you, because it's been a fantastic journey up to this point. So for anyone who wants to do the Pakse Loop, here is our recommended itinerary:
Start in Pakse: TnB tip: Get a scooter from Miss Noy Scooter Rental and in case of a flat tire or defect always contact the relevant scooter rental company first to avoid being ripped off.
Suggestion: Drive clockwise towards Tad Lo. Most people choose to go clockwise to explore the loop.
Mr. Vieng's Coffee Farm: A must-see on the way! Join the coffee tour and enjoy fresh coffee. You can stay overnight at the Katu Homestay, about 60 km from Pakse.
Tad Lo: Visit the waterfalls and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. TnB tip: Try the local food!
Thateng for the long loop: If you have a little more time, you can opt for the longer loop and continue towards Thateng. Alternatively, you can take the shorter route to the Sinouk Garden Resort. From there it is only 32 km to Paksong.
Sekong for the long loop: The longer loop takes you further to Sekong. There are also many beautiful waterfalls and authentic villages to discover along the way.
Ban Beng Phon Klum and Tad Katamtok: You can stay overnight at the Tad Saulin Homestay . Then continue to Paksong - on the way it is worth exploring the Tad Tayicseua waterfalls and the area around Paksong, which is known for its coffee and tea farms.
Returning the scooter in Pakse: The scooter is finally returned to Miss Noy. The cool thing about it: She only cares about the scooter coming back – it doesn’t matter when. On the way you should definitely visit the Tad Yuang waterfalls, Visit Tad Champi and Tad Fane. Another TnB tip: plan a visit to a small tea factory - a great way to learn more about local tea production.
The moment that changed everything: rabies and panic
Unfortunately, this was the part of our trip that almost made us give up. A dog from our accommodation, who had been kind and friendly to us the day before, suddenly behaved very strangely at breakfast the next morning. He snapped at a guest and attacked a member of staff. Tanja had petted the dog the day before and also had an open wound on her chin that she had touched after contact with the dog.
Panic broke out - what now?
After many phone calls and a lot of fear, panic and tears, we decided to go back to Pakse and take a night bus to Vientiane to get better medical care in the capital.
Vientiane - Finding peace amidst uncertainty
We spent most of our time in Vientiane at the Man Cave Café Hostel Bar . The hostel was reasonably priced and offered simple breakfasts, as well as a wide selection of delicious cocktails and drinks. This time was marked by uncertainty and fear about whether we had made the right decision. Worrying about the possible consequences of exposure to rabies weighed heavily on us (especially on Tanja), and we spent many hours thinking about our next steps.
Despite the difficult times, we did not miss the opportunity to discover the culinary diversity of Vientiane and visit some of the city's beautiful markets and restaurants:
Gallery Risto Café & Restaurant: A charming restaurant with a great ambience, ideal for a relaxed lunch or dinner.
Night Market with Food: A lively night market where you can try a variety of street food – authentic, delicious and cheap.
Noys Fruit Heaven Restaurant and Bike Rental: A little gem perfect for fresh fruit juices and healthy snacks. You can also rent bikes here to explore the city.
The Elephant Vientiane Rooftop Lounge: A slightly more expensive highlight, but the view from the roof terrace is definitely worth it. Perfect for a relaxed evening with a delicious drink.
TnB tip: Walk along the Mekong River, find a cozy spot for the sunset and look over to Thailand.
Although we didn't have many adventures in Vientiane, our time here helped us to relax, make friends and recharge our batteries before moving on.
Vang Vieng - The Adventure Paradise
After we had sorted everything out in Vientiane and our thirst for adventure was back, we decided to make another trip to Vang Vieng. The few days there were really beautiful and we really enjoyed the time. TnB tip: Even though we didn't do a boat tour or tubing drink tour on the Nam Song River ourselves, it was often recommended to both of us - the perfect way to enjoy the picturesque landscape while having lots of fun.
Instead, we did the Blue Lagoon 1 tour on a rented scooter. After climbing up the Tham Phu Kham cave, we were able to cool off in the Blue Lagoon below. For the more adventurous among you, exploring the Tham Pha Kham cave is a must.
Another highlight in Vang Vieng was the visit to the Tham Nam Cave (also known as the Water Cave), where we went into the cave with swimming rings. We pulled ourselves through the dark passages on a rope - definitely touristy, but also somehow very fun. The climb to the Pha Ngern Viewpoint was also absolutely brilliant, a mountain with two motorbikes placed on top with the Laotian flag. The view from there was incredible and definitely worth the effort.
Unfortunately, we couldn't do the balloon ride at sunrise because it wasn't in the budget, and we're still a little annoyed about that. We don't know if Tanja would have been able to handle the heights anyway, but if you're not afraid of heights, you should definitely put this experience on your list. The view of the limestone cliffs and the surrounding landscape must be breathtaking.
TnB-tip: Hikes in the mountains around Vang Vieng are highly recommended - the views are simply fantastic!
To sum it up
After these eventful days in Vang Vieng, we went back to Vientiane and then took one of the longest bus rides to Vietnam. Laos confronted us with some challenges, but ultimately we also had incredible experiences that we will remember for a long time. Despite all the difficulties, Laos was ultimately a lesson for us - a lesson about courage, solidarity and also about the beautiful sides of this breathtaking trip around the world.
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Discover the north of Laos – highlights and tips for your trip
Even though we didn't make it to the north of Laos during our trip, we would like to share with you the highlights and valuable tips for this fascinating part of the country. The north of Laos is known for its breathtaking mountain landscapes, cultural treasures and the opportunity to experience authentic Laos away from the tourist crowds.
Luang Prabang – The Pearl of Laos (UNESCO World Heritage Site)
Luang Prabang is the heart of the north and is one of the most beautiful cities in all of Southeast Asia. The city combines French colonial charm with Laotian tradition and is surrounded by temples, waterfalls and the Mekong.
Highlights in Luang Prabang:
Kuang Si Waterfalls: The turquoise cascades are an absolute must-see! You can swim there or explore the hiking trails.
Monks' Alms Ceremony (Tak Bat): Early in the morning, hundreds of monks walk through the streets to collect alms - an unforgettable spiritual experience.
Mount Phousi: The perfect place to enjoy the sunset over the city. It leads up a staircase with 355 steps.
Night Market: Here you can find handmade souvenirs and try Laotian cuisine.
Pak Ou Caves: These caves on the Mekong contain thousands of Buddha statues and are a popular boat trip destination.
Nong Khiaw – The Hidden Paradise
If you want to experience authentic Laos away from the tourist crowds, you should put Nong Khiaw on your travel list. The small, charming village lies on the banks of the Nam Ou River and is surrounded by green limestone cliffs.
Highlights in Nong Khiaw:
Viewpoint Hike: The hiking trail takes you to one of the most beautiful viewpoints in Laos. The hike takes about 1.5 to 2 hours, but the view of the river and the green mountains is breathtaking!
Boat trip on the Nam Ou River: Enjoy a relaxing trip through the limestone cliffs – a real nature experience.
Tham Pha Thok Cave: This historic cave was used as a hideout during the Vietnam War and offers interesting insights into history.
Muang Ngoi – The remote backpacker paradise
From Nong Khiaw you can reach Muang Ngoi by boat. The village is car-free and offers an atmosphere of absolute relaxation.
Highlights in Muang Ngoi:
Hikes to nearby villages: Visit the traditional Hmong village of Huay Bo or the Khmu village of Ban Na.
Kayak tours and boat tours: The Nam Ou River is perfect for a relaxing tour of the surrounding area.
Cave visits: Tham Kang Cave also served as shelter during the Vietnam War.
Phongsali – coffee plantations and trekking adventures
Phongsali is the northernmost province of Laos and a paradise for hiking and trekking enthusiasts. Here you can explore remote mountain villages and experience the original Laos.
Highlights in Phongsali:
Trekking to the villages of the Akha minority: Stay overnight with host families in the traditional villages of the hill tribes.
Phu Fa Viewpoint: A viewpoint with a breathtaking view over the mist-covered mountains.
Coffee Tour: Visit a coffee plantation and taste the local coffee grown here at high altitudes.
Bokeo & the Gibbon Experience
Bokeo is known for the legendary Gibbon Experience, an eco-tourism project where you stay in treehouses and glide through the jungle from treetop to treetop.
Highlights in Bokeo:
Gibbon Experience: Fly through the jungle on zip lines and spend the night in a tree house - a once-in-a-lifetime experience! You even have the chance to see the rare gibbons (a species of monkey).
Bokeo Conservation Area: Home to gibbons, elephants, tigers and more.
Boat trip on the Mekong: From Bokeo you can take the famous 2-day Mekong boat trip to Luang Prabang.
Pakbeng – stopover on the Mekong
Pakbeng is a small village that is often used as a stopover on the Mekong boat trip from Thailand (Chiang Khong) to Luang Prabang.
Highlights in Pakbeng:
Relaxation on the Mekong: Many travelers stay overnight here before continuing their Mekong boat trip.
Recommended route for the north of Laos
Luang Prabang – Temples, Waterfalls, Markets
Nong Khiaw – Viewpoint, Hiking
Muang Ngoi – relaxation, hiking, boat tours
Phongsali – Trekking, coffee tours
Bokeo – Gibbon Experience, treehouse adventure